Wednesday, November 29, 2017

Kantha stitch embroidery

Orissa Textile Art


Orissa is a must go destination if you share a love for textiles. It’s home to many unique textile techniques with fabrics being produced all over the state. It is mostly famous for silk ikat weaves through the process of Bandha creating unusual patterns and vibrant colours keeping it in popular demand all over the world today. It"s fabrics are also rich in kantha stitch embroidery, a wonderful technique to embellish any of your old fabrics to create beautiful textile design projects.Kan

Kantha embroidery


One of the sensational stitching techniques seen in Orissa is Kantha embroidery. It is one of the most important textile arts in Eastern India. Like most traditional textile techniques, it is both a fine art and a household craft, and a form of personal expression for the artist.

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Origins of Kantha stitch embroidery


Kantha embroidery began 500 centuries ago in West Bengal and Orissa as a method of reusing and recycling dhotis, sarees and other pieces of clothing Bengalis were reluctant to throw away. It was a means of creating useful household items from used fine quality muslin and cotton saris. Yarn salvaged from worn clothing was used to embroider large repeating motifs and designs across whole pieces of fabric. This is a wonderful process to transform your textiles receiving world wide demand. Even Hillary Clinton feel in love with the exquisite displays of Kantha embroidery.

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What is Kantha embroidery?


Kantha embroidery is unique because of its extensive use of the running stitch (which is called ‘kantha’ locally). This is one of the basic hand stitching techniques suitable for beginners, threading the needle up from the back and then down again. Usually the stitch under the fabric should be shorter than the one above leading to the distinctive wavy wrinkled look to the fabric. Remember the closer and tighter the stitches, the stiffer the fabric will feel compared to the stitching being further apart.

Traditional Kantha embroidery involves running stitches across the whole fabric design normally in a single colour but there are various standard styles for stitching this. This is classified broadly into two categories aligned (JOD), not aligned (BEJOD). Butti is usually denotes a small motif placed throughout the fabric.

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How to apply the Kantha stitch to your craft projects


This delightful stitch can be applied to all light and medium weight fabrics although cotton and silk are best suited for this embroidery. Colouricious first bock print the fabric to create a stunning base to stitch across. You can also block print the specific motifs and design ot act as a template to trace with your stitch and acts as an fabulous embellishment. There are many different applications for Kantha. These can be categorised into a few of the below:

Lep Kantha - generation of warm and heavily padded quilts using kantha stitch.

Sujani Kantha - creating blankets or spreads for ceremonial occasions.

Baiton Kantha – using square fabric pieces stitched to produce coverings for valuable objects or as wraps for books

Oar kantha – to develop pillow covers

Archilata Kantha is used for covering mirrors

Durjani Kantha is small pieces of fabric inside of a wallet

Rumal Kantha which is used to cover plates

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Try Kantha stitch yourself!


There are so many ways to wonderfully apply this technique to create your gorgeous textile art. Just be creative as you don’t have to worry about going wrong as this embroidery is adaptable. One of its great attributes is you can keep this project going for months, not having to worry about keeping to a pattern. It is a great way of repurposing any old fabrics you have laying about along with block printing. Hand or machine washing would be adequate to maintain the longevity of the fabric and embroidery.

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Colouricious Holidays


Kantha-stitch-embroidery-sewing-techniquesYou will witness the women in India hand sew and embellish beautiful fabric pieces used as Kantha sprees and Kantha quilts. You will enjoy the company of like-minded people enjoying a creative and inspiring textile holiday learning about different hand printing and sewing techniques that you will then explore yourselves. Visit www.colouriciousholidays.com to find out what amazing adventure you could be on next!


Learn, create, be happy!


 

Thursday, November 23, 2017

Block printing textiles

Block printing textiles using Khadi Printing Technique


Khadi is a popular hand block printing technique with many of these printed textiles in high demand amongst fashion trends today. It is the process of printing light shades onto a white or traditionally darkened, coloured fabric. This is due to the harsh nature of the paste enabling the print to stand out.

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Khadi Paste


Khadi is a thick white coloured paste prepared by mixing titanium dioxide as a white pigment along with a binder. Stains can be added to generate different colour combinations. The textiles are not printed with Khadi colour as the pigments wouldn’t show up on dark fabrics, but instead the colour is resting on the surface, secured in place by the organic gum used as the glue in the paste. As the printing ink doesn’t permeate through the fabric, Khadi prints are easy to identify with pattern only visible on one side of the fabric.

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Kahdi printing on fabrics


Although this is one of the easiest printing methods, it requires considerable practice to achieve a good print as the smearing and cleansing fastness of these prints isn’t optimal. Due to the nature of the paste, it dries quickly and can result in uneven saturation of the blocks leading to unbalanced prints. The paste can stiffen the fabric and should not be used when printing with sharp lines or intricate designs. Helpful tips for the best results include properly mixing the paste and handling the fabric gently.

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If visiting India, these pastes can be picked up from local markets. You’ll see most sarees, salwar kameez, lehengas, rajasthani dresses using this stunningly beautiful technique. There are many different Indian printing techniques contributing to the wonderful array of the fabrics you see today.

 Colouricious Holidays


Block-printing-textiles-hand-fabric-printing-craft-holidays

Khadi printing is one of the many methods of block printing textiles our guests are taught on a Colouricious Holiday. Travel India with like minded people and experience block printing with traditional block printers, honing this beautiful craft to create your own gorgeous fabrics. Choose from the widest selection of hand carved blocks to print with, see how the blocks are made and immerse yourself in all the wonderful ancient crafts India has to offer. Visit www.colouriciousholidays.com to find out more.

 

 

Monday, November 20, 2017

Textile tours - Indian cotton fabric

Where is Orissa - textile tours destination?


Textile-tour-craft-holiday

Orissa is an Indian state located on the eastern coast and is a brilliant destination for textile tours. Its landscape is mostly vast mountain ranges with broad rivers flowing between the valleys. The beautiful coastal plain lies on the east of the state hosting the largest coastal lagoon in India and the second largest coastal lagoon in the world. Orissa is also one of the locations Colouricious Holidays offer as a textile tours hotspot. It"s rich in gorgeous fabrics made by hand.

People of Orissa


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In spite of being rural, people of Orissa, have still retained India"s earliest civilization in its pristine form by keeping their traditional values alive in the countless thousands of villages in the country side. Of all the states of India, Orissa has the largest number of tribes, as many as 62 that constitute an impressive 24 percent of the total population of the state. These tribes mainly inhabit the Eastern Ghats hill range that runs in the north-south direction.

quilting-arts-textiles-holiday-orissaSubsistence oriented economy of the tribes here is based on food gathering, hunting and fishing, thus, revolving around forests. While farming, they make use of a very simple technology and a simple division of labor often limited to the immediate family. But they lose out because their holdings are small and unproductive, lacking irrigation facility due to a hilly and undulating terrain.

textile-tour-craft-holiday-tie-dyetextile-tour-craft-holiday-tie-dyeMany tribes practice shifting cultivation or Podu Chasa, also known as slash and burn. They select a plot of land on a mountain slope, slash down all the trees and bushes and burn them to ashes. Spreading the ashes evenly over the land, they wait for the rains before planting their crops. Due to cultivation for two or three seasons on one plot of land the soil gets depleted and the tribes move on. It is a way of life for them.

Textiles tours of Orissa


The beautiful variety of unusual fabrics and vibrant textile colours all

over India make this a number 1 destination to visit on textile tours for textile lovers. Orissa is home to and famous for its silk ikat weaves. This unique technique is known as tie and dye (Bandha) and is a very intricate process. It takes extraordinary precision with the predetermined design and colour gradually appearing as dyed threads are woven together. Click here (http://gaatha.com/cotton-weaves-of-orissa/) to delve deeper and learn more about the wonderful cotton weaves of Orissa.

Thousands of weavers are inhabited in remote villages living with age old traditions, creating superb workmanship on silk, cotton, tusser fabrics.


On a colouricious holiday to Orissa textile tours, you can expect to experience saree weaving, basket weaving, Dokhra metal art, pottery, stone carving and palm leaf painting, just some of the crafts to get involved with at these remote villages.

Orissa Cuisine


With a simple yet delicious cuisine, Orissa follows a food pattern that is somewhat similar to the neighboring states. Rice, the staple food is paired with vegetables.Due to their deeply religious culture, most of Oriya people practice textile-tours-craft-holidays-orissa-foodvegetarianism. But a significant proportion of population yet relishes fish and other sea food delicacies like prawns, crabs and lobsters that are found in plenty at the vast coastline of the state. Cooked with little or absolutely no oil, Oriya food has a less calorific value.
Along with curd and coconut milk, people are very fond of sweets as well. The curd here is rich and creamy and gives the succulent flesh an additional flavor. Not only the seafood but yams, brinjals and pumpkins are also liberally used in curd with mustard seeds giving the whole preparation that extra zing. Pithas are also very popular food items here. These are small cakes both sweet and savory in taste. Chhenapodapitha, the caramelized custard-like dessert is also very popular not only with the locals but with the tourists also.

Want to join us on a holiday?


Colouricious Holidays have lots of different holidays exploring India, Japan, Bhutan and Uzbekistan. We will be expanding this all the time with more

destinations and places to go. If you would like to join us on one of our wonderful cultural, arts and crafts holidays visit our website where you will be able to read all about the holidays we offer and you can reserve your place.

We look forward to seeing you on a Colouricious Holiday!

www.colouriciousholidays.com (https://colouriciousholidays.com/product/textile-tour-tribal-art-of-orissa/)

Travel, Explore, Be Happy!

Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Bagru Block Printing

Bagru Block Printing


Bagru-block-printing-workshop-hand-block-printed-cotton-fabricBagru is a small village located near Jaipur, the capital City of Rajasthan. It"s home to the Chippa community who have been practicing a unique style of printing for more than 350 years. Colouricious holidays visited Bagru, running Bagru block printing workshops, working with traditional printers and helping support this ancient craft which faces threat from globalisation.

Bagru Block Printing Process


The traditional Bagru printing process can be described as follows:

Scouring- locally called ‘Hari Sarana’
The fabric that comes from mills of handloom sector contains natural and added impurities such as starch, oil and dust. To get goods and even penetration of colours, the fabric is boiled with soap and desizing agents. Traditionally cow dung was used for scouring. Cow dung contains a lot of alkali, Cow dung and water are mixed together and the cloth (running cloth ‘than’cut in required length) is then left dipped in that paste overnight. The process of washing is a long one, generally carried out by the ladies. The next day, the clothes are washed and spread on large open grounds. Before the clothes dry completely, more water is sprinkled on them and thus they are made wet again. This process of sprinkling water and drying is repeated 5-6 times a day. This procedure is carried out unit the cloth becomes white and bright. Generally, as per requirement, this process in done for 3 to 6 days. After this the cloth is washed with pure water. Since it is tedious and time consuming, soaps have replaced the cow dung in this process.

Tannin- locally called ‘Peela Karana’
‘Harda’Washed fabric is treated with myrobalan (harda) which contains tannic acid. Tannic acid attracts the mordants, which are applied with hand woodblock. ‘Harda’ powder is mixed with water, and the cloth is submerged in it, squeezed and dried flat on the ground. Once the fabric is dried, it is folded and beaten with a wooden mallet to remove excess ‘harda’ powder and open up the fiber to accept the dye. This process in known as ‘peela karna’. The tannic acid of  myrobalam (harda) forms black colour with ferrous ( syahee )which is traditionally made by reaction of old rusted horse shoe nails with jaggery.

Printing (mordanting)- locally called ‘chapai’
The fabric is printed with two mordant- ferrous (‘syahee’) made out of rusted horse shoe nails, and alum (‘begar’). Usually ferrous is printed with the outline block (‘rekh’). As it immediately shows a black impression, it is easy for another printer to place the filler block (‘datta’) with beggar or alum. The background block (Gudh’) comes later.

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Ageing-locally called ‘Sukhai’
The printed fabric is left hanging at the printing areas for at least three-four days so that the prints(mordant paste) penetrates into the fiber structure. Longer the ageing better is the result.

Washing- locally called ‘Dhulai’
The printed fabric is washed in running water. It is important to understand the need of running/flowing water. While washing the printed fabric in running water the excess mordants come out and get washed away with the flow of water without getting stuck back to the cloth. Water shortage has forced the printers to cut short this process due to which, the colors do not get fixed up properly and later “bleed” and people think that natural dyes are not fast.

Dyeing (fixing of color) - locally called ‘Ghan Rangai’
Dyeing is a process in which the dye reacts with two mordants at two different locations on the same print giving two different shades of colors. As mentioned earlier ‘alizarin’ is used as the dye throughout Rajasthan. The colours obtained in conjunction with the two mordants are red (with alum) and block (with ferrous). Dyeing is carried out in large copper vessels (‘tambri’) which are heated by wood fire. Alizarin is filled in small cloth-bags (‘potali’) and dipped in the vessel. The quantity of alizarin dye is calculated by the experienced dyer. ‘Dhawadi phool’, a local flower is boiled along with alizarin to avoid patches and staining. Once the dyed fabric is ready (usually it takes half-an-hour), it is taken out of the copper vessel and left on the ground for drying.

Sun-bleaching- locally called ‘Tapai’

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Alizarin often”over dyes” the unprinted area giving an off-white or yellow tinge all over the fabric which makes the print look dull. In order to make the ground look ‘white’ again the fabric is sun-bleached. In this process the fabric is laid flat on a river bed, a mild solution of cow dung and water is sprinkled over the fabric. This process is repeated again when the fabric is dried. The interaction of alkali (of cow dung) and thermal heat (sun ray) bleach the ground color making it look white again. Sometimes this process in carried out before the tannin (‘harda’) treatment but due to shortage of water this process is cut short and these days the ‘off- white’ color of the background has become a part of natural dyeing process.

 



Colouricious Holidays - Bagru Block Printing Workshops

Colouricious holidays offer fantastic tours of India Japan and Bhutan and Uzbekistan where you can design your own fabrics, try out different printing techniques and take part in the wonderful Bagru block printing process. Please visit www.colourlouriciousholidays.com to find out more.

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Do you know where  Bagru actually is? Check it out on the world map!

Wednesday, November 8, 2017

Metallic Print Fabric

Metallic print fabric is the answer


Creating your own fabric designs or making your own paper for craft projects needn"t be difficult. Colouricious love to experiment with metallic paints. Using wooden printing blocks, metallic print fabric can transform textiles into these beautiful collage designs below. Due to the reflective nature of the paint, it blends well with any dyed fabric generating this magical, vibrant appearance and is the best way to embellish your textiles.

 

 

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Metallic print fabric workshops


Alternatively you can create sequential patterns, a popular printing technique adopted on the block printing colouricious holidays to Jaipur. The crafters worked with traditional block printers applying this modern twist to create their own fabulous textile designs. They got to choose from a wide range of blocks and metallic fabric paint colours.

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Metallic paint


If wooden block printing isn"t your cup of tea then don"t be afraid to get creative. Metallic paint can be used in many wonderful ways. This paint works best on natural fibres than synthetic as the paint is made from a mixture of a pigment and a glue-like binder and therefore sticks to rougher surfaces easier. The sparkle that these wonderful paints create will enhance any of your creations. Unlike fabric dye, it only requires ironing to fix the paint.

 

Metallic print fabric taken your fancy?Metallic_fabric_paints


If you have been inspired by the creations on this page and would like to try this for yourself, visit www.colouricious.com to pick up a box of metallic paint to help get you started on your own textile designs.

 

 

Colouricious Holidays - Metallic Fabric Print




On a colouricious holiday, you can use metallic paint to design your own fabrics. There are huge variety of blocks available to print with and you are taught by Jaipur"s very own block printers in traditional workshops in remote villages. Visit www.colouriciousholidays.com to find out more about the wonderful holidays available.